Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to explore these stories and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
